So without further ado – here’s what you need to do to store your bike properly for the winter so that when spring comes along, you aren’t wondering why your baby hates you and won’t start.

Every motorcyclist may have many different opinions on how to do the process of winterizing their motorcycles. Doing it is a matter of grave significance in order to restore the power and built of your motorcycle in order for it to be sturdy during its active lifespan.

Before The Off-Season:

• Even before the winter sets in, check over your motorcycle for any mechanical problems. If you find something wrong, put it in repair immediately.

 

•  After the last ride of the season, top off your gas tank. This will prevent water condensation in the tank. You can treat your gas with a gasoline stabilizer for your fuel to stay good through the winter.

 

Winterizing:

PREP: Gather up the tools necessary for winterizing your bike. You’ll need:
- cleaning cloths
-spark plug wrench
-trickle battery charger or battery tender
- four or five quarts of high quality oil
-new oil filter
-oil can or device to get oil in the cylinders
-chain lube (if you have a chain drive)
-fuel stabilizer
-spray can of WD40
-a breathable motorcycle cover
-kitchen plastic wrap
-rubber bands
-vinyl or plastic gloves
-items to clean and wax your bike

STEPS:

1. Give your bike a thorough cleaning. A gentle wash detergent and water will suffice. By removing road grime and insects you will protect the finish of the bike. Avoid spraying water directly into the opening of the muffler (check out my post on how to wash your motorcycle with pictures of  Jezebel’s first bath for more info on bike washing). NOTE: If baffles get wet and are not dried prior storage, internal rust could result. Likewise avoid moisture in the air cleaner housing. If the housing becomes saturated, it could act as a choke, making cycle difficult to start. Dry completely with a good chamois.Clean and polish all aluminum and stainless surfaces with the appropriate metal polish. Finally finish up with a coat of good wax polish on all painted and chrome surfaces.

 

2. Clean the chain (if you have one). Spray off all the built up residues with WD40. Lube the chain (you should be doing this every 5,000km approximately).

 

3. Add a fuel stabilizer to the gas tank. Fill your tank with gas as full as it can go. This is very important. As fuel ages, more volatile components tend to change, leaving sludge and gummy substances that can affect the carburetor. Run the bike so the gas and fuel stabilizer get to the carburetor and fuel injectors, then turn off the fuel and run it dry. It’s important to get the mixed gas&fuel stabilizer all through the engine.

 

4. If you have a carburetor, drain your float bowls. Shut off the gas petcock and drain the gas from the carburetor bowls. Consult your manual for location of drain screws. Of course if you have a fuel-injected bike, there isn’t anything to drain. On the ninja, this is a pain in the neck – the little screws you need to get to to drain the carbs are hard to get to and even harder to turn. They’re in front of the air filter and you need to snake your hand in to get to them, using a ball-end allan key. Both bolts face the right side of the bike. Good luck, this is one of the most difficult parts.

 

5. Once the engine is warm, you can change the oil and filter. Oil chemistry changes over periods of extended storage. Old oil can develop acidic qualities, which can corrode engine parts.

 

6. Using an oil-squirting device, put oil over the stationary tubes on the front forks. Get on the bike, hold the front brake and bounce the bike up and down to work the front suspension. This will keep the rubber seals from drying out and protect the exposed fork tubes.

 

7. Remove spark plug wires, and carefully with a spark plug wrench remove the plugs. With your oil-squirting device, get some motor oil in the cylinders. Approximately one teaspoon of oil will work well. Tuck the plug wires away somewhere safe so they do not arc, then spin the motor with the starter for a few revolutions to get the oil spread around. Remember to keep your face away from the spark plug holes. Oil will squirt out! Clean and gap the plugs and put them back in. Replace plug wires.

 

8. Remove the battery. [if you've never done this before - stop and make sure you know what order to unplug. You can electrocute yourself if you don't do it in the right order - watch for that grounder! [This post is great step-by-step instructions]
   Some batteries may require charging every four weeks with a “Battery Tender” type of charger. Built up sulfates on the plates can ruin a battery during cold storage and inactivity. A thin coat of Vaseline to the terminals on the battery can prevent corrosion. This small step will mean an easier spring start up and no extra cost of battery replacement.I took the battery out completely, and brought it up to my apartment, where it’s plugged in to a trickle charger and sitting on cardboard in case of any acid leakage. If you use a trickle charger and not a battery tender you must unplug it every couple of weeks to avoid overcharging and killing your battery. 
   
   

 

9. Clean or Change the Air Filter: Give it a wash or change it for a new one depending on what it’s made of. On the Ninja, because it’s sponge, you can take it out, clean the gunk off, wash it with mild dish detergent and let it dry (Be gentle with it!). Make sure it’s completely dry, then coat one side lightly with oil.  This is what it should look like (pic below). When you first pull it out, it’s likely to have a bunch of gross gunk on it. On the Ninja250, you have to remove your side panel to get to it, it’s on the right side below the seat, and it’s an easy-to-see slot that you just pull it out of. 
   
   

 

10. If your bike has a liquid cooling system, check it’s level of anti-freeze with a hygrometer. Drain, flush and replace antifreeze if necessary. This replacement is recommended to be done every two years. Do not leave the antifreeze level low or empty, this could lead to rust or corrosion of the cooling system. Check all other fluid levels at this time.

 

11. Lube your cables (break and clutch). Lube suspension and pivot points. Lube the drive shaft (if you have one). Check the air cleaner and the fuel filter. Look at brake pads. Give your bike a good once over.

 

12. Clean and treat all leather with a high quality dressing. 

 

13. If your storage location is bare concrete, use a piece of plywood, MDF, or old thick carpet. This will insulate the bike from becoming damp. Also consider storing your bike with all the weight removed from the wheels. A bike stand or some blocking works if you have a wheeled lift. A center stand and some blocking will work too. Do not store your bike near any ozone emitting devices, such as motors, freezers, furnaces or electric heaters. The gasses created by the above will deteriorate rubber parts.

 

14. With a clean cloth, wipe good quality light machine oil over all the metal surfaces, except the disc brakes. Spray a little WD40 in the tail pipe(s). Cover your tail pipe opening and the air intake with plastic wrap and a rubber band. You can also cover drain hoses as well. This will prevent any opportunistic pests from making a cozy winter home in your bike.

 

15. Do not run the engine for short periods of time over the storage period, this can lead to condensation due to engine and combustion byproducts in the oil. 

 

This past weekend I went on my first (of hopefully many) overnight bike trips. Here in BC, there’s some amazing roads and scenery to cover, this was my basic route:

We left Vancouver at around 5:30Pm on Friday, and drove to Whistler before nightfall (we are all still on our learners’ licenses and can’t drive at night). In the morning, we stopped in Pemberton for gas, then drove up through the mountains to Lillooet where we stopped for lunch. There were lots of twisties, and some beautiful scenery – but also a lot of steep downhills with sharp hairpin turns, which can be intimidating for a new rider (like me) – I was careful to gear down.

From Lillooet we drove to Merritt for gas, then on to Kelowna where we arrived at 8p.m, right before nightfall. The next morning we woke up, and headed through Princeton into Manning park – my favourite part of the ride was Kelowna to Princeton – empty country roads with lots of bends, good for practicing leans and just letting her rip. Manning park was amazing, the scenery alone was worth the 2 hour detour. We got home exhausted by 8pm on the Sunday.

Planning what to Pack

(from about.com)

Motorcycle trips demand far more planning than the equivalent journey in a car. Though riding provides an inherent sense of freedom, practical limitations require motorcyclists to think ahead when choosing to hit the open road.For starters, most motorcycles are limited in their storage capacity. Though all-out touring bikes such as the Honda Gold Wing and the BMW K1200LT offer numerous hard cases for the storage of extra clothes and gear, long distance riders are often forced to make tough decisions about the details of their trips, and how much of what items they need to pack.

Important Points to Consider

The first questions you’ll want to ask yourself when planning a trip pertain to how long you plan on being gone, where you intend to go, and what you have in mind for lodging.

First on your list of “must pack” items is a safety and repair kit, which we’ve covered in a separate article.

Unless you’re riding a fully fledged touring motorcycle, you’ll probably need to invest in some type of storage bags; backpacks don’t count. Options include saddlebags (which rest straddle the seat and rest on either side of the rear wheel, and are also known as panniers,) and tank bags, which sit directly atop the fuel tank (and often have handy clear plastic windows for displaying maps.) While hard bags offer more weather protection than soft bags, they are also costlier, add more weight, and require more involved installation. Centrally positioned tail bags are another option if you need even more storage.

Inspect Your Bike

While more detailed inspection and maintenance practices can be found in our motorcycle maintenance section, the Motorcycle Safety Foundation’s T-CLOCS method is an efficient way to inspect your bike before traveling:

• T: Tires.
  Make sure both tires are properly inflated, using an air pressure monitor that you bring with you on rides. Don’t risk riding on tires that might need replacement; if suspect a tire will not last long enough for a ride, have it replaced.

• C: Controls.
  Are your cables (clutch and brakes) and controls intact and working?

• L: Lights.
  Make sure your headlights (high & low beam), turn signals, and brake lights work.

• O: Oils & fluids.
  Check everything from engine oil and coolant to brake fluid.

• C: Chassis.
  Ensure that the frame, suspension, chain, and fasteners are all secure and intact.
• S: Stands.

• Make sure the center stand and/or side stand isn’t cracked or bent, and that springs properly hold the assembly away from the pavement when stowed.

For a more detailed, downloadable inspection checklist, go to the Motorcycle Safety Foundation’s website.

Packing Tips

Packing for a long distance motorcycle ride is a delicate balance between bringing enough items to ensure comfort, and not overloading yourself with unnecessary weight and bulk. After you’ve planned your route, you’ll want to check the weather forecast and get an idea of what to expect in terms the elements.

A good touring suit is an excellent investment, and when choosing your clothes, consider packing several thin layers of clothing, rather than a few thick ones. Flexibility is the key to staying comfortable; it’s far better to have the option to stop and shed or add layers as necessary, than to shiver or sweat your way through what would otherwise be an enjoyable, scenic route.

Be sure to bring energy bars or trail mix and water; if hunger or thirst strikes while you’re far from convenience stores or gas stations, the nourishment will come in handy and keep your riding skills sharp.

When loading up your bike, always put heavier, more solid items on the bottom and sides closer to the bike (to centralize weight.) Lighter items should go on top. If you don’t have saddlebags or tank bags, you should consider using bungee nets to secure loose items. If you must travel with items secured by a bungee net, ensure that they are snug and will not get loosened by winds or g-forces. Again, placing heavier , wider, and more stable items at the bottom will provide an anchor for looser, floppier pieces (like sleeping pads or pillows.)

Finally, equip yourself well. Always wear a full-face helmet for maximum protection– not only against accidents, but also from the elements. Full-face helmets can provide a shield from rain and cold winds, and if constructed with ventilation, can also provide a certain level of comfort in warm weather. It may feel constricting in heat, but the overall benefits of choosing safety over style are vast when considering your long-term health and well being.

Plan, Plan, Plan…

Though it’s tempting to hit the open road and simply follow your nose, don’t forget that you’re more vulnerable to the elements, fatigue, and potentially serious injury on a motorcycle. Prepare yourself with clothing appropriate for the weather. Plan a route and, if you don’t have a portable GPS system, do whatever it takes not to get lost– even if it means taping directions to the top of your fuel tank. Err in the direction of filling up with gas too frequently; because of their relatively low cruising range, most bikes will barely make it across some of the North American stretches of highway that are sparsely populated. When in doubt, fill up.Pace your travels realistically. Don’t try to ride so many hours in a day that it might affect your reflexes or decision making ability; after all, most of the fun is in the journey, not simply in reaching a destination. While riding, be sure to stop whenever necessary– whether for a snack, a stretch, or a nap. The simple act of taking a breather will make the ride all the more enjoyable.

What I took:

Thank Goodness for self timers! We stopped on the side of a road in the middle of nowhere to catalogue our first journey into the unknown backroads of BC

One thing to remember: The operation of your motorcycle is not affected by its level of cleanliness. However, should you feel the need for clean…

You wash a bike almost just like a car; the biggest difference is that you never want to use anything that’ll put water pressure on a bike. A pressure washer (either the small portables or those found at car washes) absolutely will force water past seals and gaskets, which means you’ll soon be replacing wheel bearings, steering bearings, and maybe an engine. Pressure from just a normal garden hose (nothing on the end, just open) will also be enough to get past the seals on bearings. So, only use water from a bucket and a sponge or soft microfiber cloth to wash and rinse. You may want to consider two sponges: one for the bodywork and one for the dirtier, grittier areas.

But past that, use the same products for cleaning as you’d use on a car. Never use anything other than a car soap/shampoo, unless you’re planning on replacing the wax. Some way of blowing air (compressor, leaf blower, shop vac) will make getting water out from crevices a lot easier and keep water spots from forming.

Also, try your best not to get any fluids on the brake pads. Some simple car shampoos can ruin brake pads when left to sit for a few minutes. The chemicals used on brake pads are rather susceptible to other chemicals.

Here’s the genuine Kawasaki cable lubrication tool:

You can buy any generic one though – Canadian Tire sells them.

Disconnect the clutch cable from the lever (loosening it at the clutch cover first makes this task easier):

At this point, do yourself a favor and depress the clutch switch (a small, 1/8″ diameter, 1/4″ long spring-loaded piece of plastic that is activated by squeezing/releasing the clutch lever) and use a piece of tape to keep it depressed while you are working, as it is very easily broken off. It can be difficult to do this before starting, so wait until after removing the cable. The switch is most prone to breaking while reconnecting the cable. Don’t forget to remove the tape when you are done.

Clamp the tool to the cable. The thin part of the tool goes on the cable and the wider part attaches to the sheath. This lets the lube run down the cable, inside the sheath, without making too much of a mess.

Connect the lube and spray; a bit of lube may force its way out at the tool, so you may want to wrap it with a rag while you spray. It’s a good idea to put a rag down at the other end as well, as when there’s enough lube inside the sheath it will start dripping out down there. Move the cable back and forth inside the sheath to make sure it moves freely and the lube gets on everything inside.

Hook the cable back up, adjust the slack, and enjoy silky smooth clutch action.

Other available tools

Protect All Cable Luber

• Good how-to from Protect All

Motion Pro Cable Luber

Cable breakage

The clutch cable tends to break more often than many people think it should, usually right here:

Since dealers quite often don’t have these in stock, you might want to get a spare cable and zip-tie it to the current one. Should your cable break, it is just a matter of hooking up both ends and you are on your way home. That or shifting clutchless for the rest of your ride.

What should I use for lubricant?

Pretty much anything that won’t gum up your cables will work. There are a couple things you shouldn’t use, though. WD-40 is not a lubricant. Also stay away from chain wax. You don’t want something waxy building up. It doesn’t cost much to get the right stuff. Your motorcycle shop should have something similar to the Protect All Cable Life Kit. You can also find multi-purpose lubes such as those made by Krylon or Dupont in many hardware stores and big boxes. If you have a good bicycle lube that will work fine as well.

Lubing the throttle cables

Lubing a throttle cable is done in the exact same fashion as lubing a clutch cable. Use the same cable lubing device. Work the cable back and forth a few times throughout the process. There is one difference, though. The throttle cables are a bear to get off and then back on correctly, much more so than the clutch. Putting all the throttle components back in the correct place can be an exercise in frustration. Also, there are two throttle cables: one to open the throttle and one to pull it back closed. It is very difficult to get a cable luber on the opener cable. It has this weird, J-shaped guide on it that can’t be removed, and if you pull the cable far enough to get that out of the way, there’s a big plastic thing on the end of the sheath that won’t budge, or fit in the cable luber. What to do?

Don’t try to lube the throttle cable from the bar end. Go down to the carb end and work from there. Mark or measure the position of your cables relative to the adjusters, so that when you put them back together you won’t have to readjust them. Then, simply loosen the adjusters, put your cable luber on the end of the cable, and spray until you see the lube coming out the top end. You will want to have a rag at the top to collect drippage. Wes says he’s been doing it this way for seven years and has had no problems with the switches.

Details:

• Remove the #2 phillips screw holding the brass plate to the carbs. This is the plate that holds the throttle cables.
• Next, juuuust barely loosen the throttle cables enough that you can sneak ‘em out of the brass bracket.
• Put one cable into your cable luber tool, TIGHT, and wrap it with a cloth.
• Squirt lube up there until it drips out of your control pod onto the rag you put there.
• Repeat the last two steps for the other cable.
• Put the cables back in the bracket and tighten the nuts (assuming you were happy with their previous adjustment)
• Put the bracket back on the carbs
• Verify throttle cable free play (2-3mm for each cable with bars centered)

This same method can be used for the clutch cable, if you like.

How to lube the speedometer cable

Speedo cables will sooner or later dry up their original lubrication, and you will see the needle start to jump on the dial. It wants lubrication. If ignored, it will get worse and break. The cable is a tiny, long, coiled spring with square ends formed on it for a drive. You can lube the cable by disconnecting the knurled knob on the speedo gearbox on the front axle with your fingers. No need to disturb the upper end fitting at the speedo.

With great care, twist and pull the cable out of the housing. It makes some tight bends so will be a little tight. Don’t yank on it or it will be ruined. Using a MOLY (only) chassis grease available in tubes from NAPA or good auto parts stores (commonly used with a grease gun for car and truck chassis lubrication). Coat the cable thoroughly on its whole length with the grease, using your fingers to make sure it’s thoroughly greased. But don’t really glop it on, or shove grease up the housing, because that has been known to get grease up into the speedo head and ruin it.

Now, ease and fish your cable up the housing, very gently, around the tight bends. Turn it a little, which will help. You will also need to turn and ease the square drive end up into the speedo head itself, using no force at any time. Eventually you will see the cable is fully installed in its housing, as it was when you detached it from the axle gearbox. Now, re-attach it to the axle gearbox, once again carefully making sure the square end of the cable properly enters the gearbox. After tightening the knurled finger nut, you’re good to go. You will find that the cable will run smoothly a long, long time with this moly-grease treatment.

It’s not a bad idea to clean and grease up the speedo drive on the axle whenever you’ve got the wheel off. Both gears will come out of the unit, letting you remove any gunk and particles that may have settled there. Pack it real well w/ regular bearing grease when re-assembling it.

Introduction

After riding a season on the Ninjette II and swapping off on the 2005 Ninjette it seems reasonable to compare and contrast the motorbikes. I had made several statements in my introductory remarks about the new model after previewing it at the 2007 Houston International Motorcycle Show. While not addressing those statements in a line for line basis , I do plan to address each issue while making observations in several areas of interest.
 

The comments are based on my real world experiences on my slightly modified Ninjettes. No dynameter or wind tunnel tests were conducted, consulted, or considered. Herein are my “seat of the pants” observations.  

Fairing and Saddle

The structural rigidity, build quality, design, fit, and finish of the 2008 is much improved over the earlier models. The overall design assures a solid feel to the fairing. Gone are the fairing shakes, squeaks, and rattles that have always accompanied the 2005. 

The stainless hardware on 2008 is a nice touch. 

Black paint on black plastic seems like it should be easy to take care of and small nicks and scratches should be easily camouflaged. The down side is that unlike the silver metal flake of the 2005 with its more variegated visual texture, the high gloss black paint will show scars and surface scratches more easily. As it turns out , obscure areas are easily camouflaged but sun lit highlights show every imperfection. Care is needed not to damage it during cleaning and servicing. Cleaning, in particular, is an issue because the road I live on is white rock and the 2008 will have to be cleaned often. Additionally, I go to great lengths not to ride in heavily traffic situation where road debris can cause damage to the forward surfaces of the fairing. This works fine for me as the ’08 is better at swooping down back roads and the ’05 is better at sustained Interstate cruising. 

The shapely 2008 tank is nice with its indention for the rider’s legs, however, I am rather long legged for my height (5′ 10″ and a 33″ inseam), therefore my knees are above the kneepad when I try to “hug the tank”. I designed and had installed a Faux Black Ostrich “Bikini” Tank Bra and Upholstery Set to remedy this situation. 

The new tank design has less exposed metal and a greater “dome” at the top than the 1988 to 2007 and is an issue with the larger magnetic tank bags that ride well on the older style tank.
The “classic” Ninja 250 body has long been acknowledged for some time as one of the more aerodynamic fairings placed in production. It has yet to be established that the ’08 can match the “classic” in aerodynamic efficiency. 

The 2008 fairing provides more wind protection from the lower chest down. The increased protection across the handlebar is the most noticeable area compared to the 2005 Ninjette.
The 2008 fairing appears to create a more defined air capsule for the rider than the earlier Ninjette. My 2005 when combined with the Zero Gravity Double Bubble windscreen creates a taller but less distinct capsule compared to the 2008′s less turbulent and more directed air flow. One does catch a little more wind on the 2008 but it is more “managed” and an improvement over the stock configuration of the previous models. 

The air flow from the stock 2008 windscreen is solidly directed at the upper chest of the rider. Unfortunately, much of this airflow is then redirected at the top of the fuel tank creating a comfortable but pressurized air pocket (not aerodynamically efficient). The Zero Gravity Double Bubble windscreen on the 2008 causes the air capsule to just break at the shoulders allowing a small amount of air to travel down the chest to the tank and upper thighs when sitting up. On the other hand, a slight tuck causes the air to flow smoothly over the back. It may be that the Sport Touring windscreen needs to be installed on the 2008 to fully replicate the over the shoulder air capsule that the Zero Gravity Double Bubble creates for the “classic” fairing. 

The storage space under the 2008 pillion is largely taken up by the factory tool kit which can be replaced with a compact Crank Brothers Multi-5 Tool. The addition of the rear cowling cover provides more storage space for solitary riding. 

The method of attachment for the rear seat cowling is not secure. The rear simply has a peg that fits into a grommet and the front has a single peg that fits into a sliding latch. Anyone can remove the rear cowl without a key. In fact, if you do not make a concerted effort to properly place it — wind can remove the cover while you are in transit. A method of 2008 Ninja 250R Rear Seat Cowling Removal and Refitting that results in consistent positive cowling placement was developed. The cover itself is very solid and is a “must have” factory accessory. 
The Ninjette II saddle is wider, flatter, and firmer, which I find more comfortable, than “classic’s” narrow, soft saddle. The upholstery on the other hand appears to leave something to be desired — after only a couple of hundred miles the fabric has stretched and wrinkled. I have since reupholstered the 2008 with Faux Black Ostrich. 

Pillion saddle comfort on the “classic” gets the nod as the pillion on the 2008 appears to have taken a back seat. 

Both the 2005 and the 2008 have adequate space for RAM Mounts on the handlebars. 

The 20 year old utilitarian fairing design of the “classic” Ninjette lends itself to a variety of touring and commuting modifications including luggage, luggage racks, additional lighting, auxiliary switches, over-sized windscreens, and electrical outlets more readily than the “sexy” 2008 fairing. 

The new fairing sculpture is more exposed to gravel damage than the older fairing design. 

The “classic” Ninja 250 is easier to install a Front Fender Gravel Guard than the 2008.
The 2008 rear-view mirrors show a similar amount of pavement and arm as the 2005. Both benefit from a couple small convex spot mirrors. 

The trip reset button is better on the 2008. 

The night lighting on the instruments is easy to read at night on both motorcycles. 
The 2008′s dual head lamp system throws far more lumens down the road than the 2005′s antiquated single headlamp system.  

Engine and Mechanical

The Ninjette II being heavier is no surprise because the 2008 Ninja 250 has dual catalytic converters, 37mm front fork, adjustable rear shock, additional frame components, a beefier rear swing arm, 17″ wheels, larger disk brake rotors, and a lot more plastic utilized in that “pretty” fairing. 

Larger “Pedal” style disk brakes provide the 2008 with increased stopping power and are augmented by the decreased front end dive over the earlier “classic” model. 

The 2008 chain guard provides surprisingly adequate protection from “sling” when combined with a 38 tooth rear sprocket whereas the 2005 required an auxiliary chain lube sling guard to be installed. 

The muffler; love it, hate it. Located on the right side has an aggressive sweep upward it is largely out of the way for maintenance and cleaning. On the other hand, it is big due to the incased catalytic convertor and it clearly gets much hotter than the dual, non-catalyst exhaust system on the 2005. Was it a 13 gallon stainless steel tall kitchen garbage that was reincarnated or was the designer inspired by a World War I howitzer? Its radical sweep prevents moving the right foot around on the foot peg during long trips as placing the ball of one’s foot on the right foot peg tends to result in interference between one’s heel and the muffler. The up-swept muffler will make it difficult for passengers to keep heels clear of the muffler. 

I have come to appreciate the lack of a center stand. While one doesn’t have the utility of a center stand for road-side repairs the center stand is not present when not needed. Additionally, rear spools and rear stand combine to make a much more solid foundation than a center stand when working on the machine. 

The torque curve of the Ninjette II power plant works well with the modified 14:38 final drive and appears to have more “thrust” in the mid RPM range. The 2008 powers up inclines in top that would require down shifting the ’05. 

The 2005 power plant pulls stronger than the ’08 at the upper range of its RPM range to redline.
The flatter torque curve of the 2008 is more useful in everyday riding as the “classic” requires keeping the little engine spinning to get maximum torque. In most “spirited” riding situations the acceleration of the 2008 would be considered comparable to the 2005. 

Like the 2005, the 2008′s power plant is very smooth under 8000 to 9000 RPM. 

I have noted no distinct flat spots in throttle response. 

The gear shifter on the Ninjette II is more positive and definite and shifts with greater authority than the 2005. 

Some early press reports mentioned that the sound of the “new” engine entered into the design criteria. The 2008 is more satisfying auditorially when the engine, intake, and exhaust are taken as a package. It has a raspy growl and resonance at WOT the 2005 does not have. Its like comparing Rod Stewart and Barry Manilow if you will. 

Valve train clatter is reduced with the 2008. 

The new engine holds less motor oil than the “classic” Ninja 250 engine. In my opinion two quarts is not enough motor oil for an engine that spins over 7,000 RPMs at highway speeds. I have however successfully pushed the “issue” and run two quarts of oil in the 2008 for several thousand miles with no known undesirable effects. 

The Ninjette II’s engine has been practically maintenance free compared to the 2005. The valve clearance does not need checking or adjustment every 3,000 miles nor does the cam chain tensioner need attention at a similar interval. 

Performing needed maintenance on the 2005 is easier. The fairing is less complicated and easier to remove and refit. The valve clearance adjustment procedure does not require removing camshafts and the use of a calculator as with the Ninjette II. 

The 2008 kickstand is a well engineered hollow design that places the motorcycle at a greater lean angle and provides a wider stance than the previous solid design on the “classic” Ninjette.  

Ride and Handling

The 2008 frame’s improved torsional rigidity is more confidence inspiring during “spirited” riding. 

The stiff suspension of the Ninjette II (it rides like an empty dump truck on these old country roads) possesses a balanced front to rear compliance. 

The suspension allows the aforementioned improved brake system to haul the 2008 down from speed without upsetting the bike’s geometry in relation to the road whereas the 2005 tends toward severe front end drive during braking. 

The extra heft of the Ninjette II is not really evident in handling due to the ’08′s handling advantage over the “classic”. 

The 2005′s less damped suspension allows it to “float” over bumps without tending to be tossed as the 2008 is. 

The riding position is slightly more “sporty” on the ’08 than the 2005. Compared to the Ninjette I the’08′s handlebar is slightly more forward and the foot pegs slightly higher and rear set. I find both equally comfortable. 

The placement of the foot pegs on the 2005 combined with the minimalist lower fairing and conservative rake of the rear mufflers allow a variety of positions for foot placement on extended trips. Foot placement on the pegs of the 2008 is restricted by the lower fairing toward the front and the radical rake of the rear exhaust “can” toward the right rear effectively reducing the size of the cockpit “floor” and reducing the utility of the Ninjette II for cross-county duty. 

Tucking is less comfortable on the Ninjette II then on the 2005 due, in my opinion, to the more rear set foot pegs resulting in the wrists and lower back providing more of the support compared to the 2005. One can get in a semi-tucked riding position on the 2005 and go for miles. It is less turbulent tucked in behind the ’08 than the ’05. 

Zero Gravity Double Bubble windscreen allow one to adjust the height and path of the air flow at, around, or over the upper body of the rider on both Ninjette models.  

Fuel Consumption

The 2008 does not get the same fuel mileage the 2005. There are multiple differences between the 2005 and the 2008 that could contribute to this difference. Emission control systems, camshaft grind, fairing aerodynamics, and the extra weight are all possible contributing factors to the 2005 getting better fuel mileage. I have regularly over 70 MPG with the 2005 while getting over 70 MPG has been rather rare with the 2008. On the other hand, the addition of a the Zero Gravity windscreen to the 2008 has resulted in an increase in fuel efficiency and the IC Igniter Issue causing a drop in fuel efficiency most notably during hot weather. Generally, one can say the Ninjette II’s fuel economy is about 10% to 15% less than the “classic” Kawasaki Ninja 250R.  

Tires

One of the perks the latest generation’s design parameter is 17″ rims which was to result in a wider selection of tire choices. To date, that has not occurred, in fact it seems just the opposite has happened. My 2008 came with Dunlop ArrowMax GT501s, a single compound, H-rated, sport tire with an excellent reputation and a 3000 to 6000 mile tread life. Dunlop manufactured an H-rated tire sized for the 2008 Ninja 250R at Kawasaki’s request. Most 2008s came with Bridgestone Battlax BT-45s as indicated in the Kawasaki Owners Manual. 

I was very happy with the Dunlops in spite of the limited tire life but, when it came time to purchase a new rear tire, I found the ArrowMax GT501s and several other tires of the size that fit the Ninjette II to be made of “unobtainium”. The only quality tires available were Bridgestone Battlax BT-45s a high quality general use tire with a dual compound rear tire for extended center tread life. For my level of riding performance , the Bridgestone Battlax BT-45s are more than adequate and I have gotten good service from them on the 2005. Sadly, I have learned that in a cost-cutting measure Kawasaki has seen fit to shod the 2009s with some really poor rubber.  

Summary and Conclusions

The classic Ninjette and the Ninjette II are different motorcycles. The “classic” is a better workhorse readily capable of miles of long distance touring and daily commuting. The 2008 is a more focused and refined sport bike in the “Miata” sense of the term sport, not the “Ferrari” sense. It is true that one can hang luggage off the ’08 and even turn the rear seat pan into a removable tail trunk similar to the one I created for the Ninjette; however, there are simply several design characteristics that combine to keep it from being as “long legged” as the “classic”. The ’08 is a delight at carving back roads and the ’05 feels at home cruising an Interstate.

 
The 2008 is the obvious choice if the bike is solely used as a recreational vehicle. The Ninjette II has a stiffer frame, better suspension, and a gorgeous body sculpture. Maintenance is less frequent but some aspects require a level of mechanical competence that will challenge the average owner.
 

The “classic” is the consummate commuter and “all ’rounder” with a forgiving nature and compliant ride. The plain utility of the body allows the rider to easily change position in route and readily make use of a variety of luggage and after market accessories. While maintenance is more frequent than the ’08, any adventuresome owner is fully capable of performing the tasks necessary to keep the “classic” in top operating condition.

What You Will Need

1. Philips Screwdriver
2. Set of Allen Keys
3. Utility Knife
4. Saw (hack saw or wood saw will do as it will not be used for detailed cutting)
5. 10mm wrench/Socket
6. Dremel – Cutting attachment for Plastic, sanding attachments
7. Electrical tape or similar flexible tape
8. Safety Goggles

Removing the Rear Fender

Unfortunately, it is not as simple as undoing a few bolts to remove the fender, the seat, side covers, and rear fairings need to be removed, for access to some components, and to make the job a little easier.

1. Remove the passenger seat




2. Remove both side covers
   a. Remove screw (A) using a Philips Screwdriver
   b. Place your fingers near each stopper (B) and pull outwards, with a little force, they should pop free
   c. Slide the cover slightly forward to remove
   d. Repeat on the other side




3. Remove the seat
   a. Using an Allen Key, remove the bolts on either side of the seat
   b. Pull the seat slightly backwards and lift up to remove
   c. We suggest you place the seat on a soft surface or right side up to ensure you don’t scuff the seat




4. Remove the seat covers
   a. Using an Allen Key, remove the bolts (A) securing fenders on both sides
   b. Remove the right cover first, by gently pulling the stoppers out (B) and then slide the cover forwards
   c. Repeat on the left side




5. Remove the fender and break/signal light assembly
   a. Locate the signal light connectors and disconnect (Note that they are colour coded, black with black and grey with grey so reconnecting them later won’t require any guessing) b. Feed the signal light cables through the retaining loop on the left hand side of the frame c. Continue feeding the signal light cables back through the frame until they are free
   




6. Remove the fender retaining bolts (A) and disconnect the electrical connectors (B)
   
7. Gently pull backwards to remove the rear fender

Eliminating Your Fender

Before you start, make sure you have a plan for this mod and you are prepared to cut before you start. You cannot uncut the fender once it is done. We will be using the stock signal lights and as much of the original fender as possible.

1. Map out and tape the areas of your fender that you do not want to cut. We used electrical tape as it is flexible and easy to work with.  The red line roughly shows out planned cuts, and the tape is on the outside of the line.
   
2. We used a Dremel with a cutting attachment to cut the bulk of the fender off. Be careful not to cut the taped of areas or allow the rotating components of the Dremel to touch areas that could be damaged. Move slowly and do a series of small cuts. The plastic will melt if you do long cuts and it can drip and splatter, not only making a mess, but also running the risk of burning you or those around you. Don’t forget your safety glasses!
   
   
3. We found that there were several locations where parts of the fender were getting in the way of the Dremel, so we used a hand saw to do rough cuts to remove unnecessary parts of the fender and giving us additional room to work.
   
4. We also removed the signal lights to make it even easier to get the Dremel into most areas to cut. A single Philips head screw is all that holds the signal light in place. You may need to hold the metal plate that the screw fastens onto as it does have a tendency to rotate.
   
5. Some areas are too tight for the Dremel to get into so we used a utility knife to cut through the tighter spots. Cut slowly and make several passes to ensure you get the cut you want, and do not hurt yourself in the process.
   
6. The corners have metal reenforcing brackets. We cut into the corner, exposing the metal, but keeping inlign with the shape of the fender, you may want to do a vertical cut in the plastic to conceal these metal components.
   
7. At this stage, the cuts will still be quite rough, but the overall shape of your fender will be visible.
   
8. Sanding by hand or using a Deremel with a sanding attachment will smooth these cuts out fairly quickly. Take your time and use small strokes to ensure an even, smooth surface with minimal chance of the plastic melting.
   
9. We wanted the license place to sit a little further back so we drilled two holes just behind the bolts that hold the breaklight in place. We used 1/8″ x 1 1/2″ bolts to attach the license plate bracket. Since there was some overlap with the breaklight bolts, we added two additional nuts as spacers to ensure the bracket sat evenly and at an angle that looked good.
   
10. Since there is a lot of vibration when riding, we suggest that you use either locking bolts or a little loctite (blue) to ensure they do not undo while you ride. If you are not confident in the bolts, we suggest that you use a zap strap or small wire to ensure your plate does not come off should the vibrations cause the bolts to come undone. That being said, locktite or locking nuts should be enough to hold everything where it belongs.
11. Bolt your license plate onto the bracket and you are ready to reassemble your bike.
    
12. Reassemble your bike by following the steps above in reverse order, and when you are done, your Ninja 250R will have a new, sleak look without spending anything!

We selected the Roaring Toyz handle bar raisers and lowering links to for this lowering project. The Roaring Toyz components gave us the balance of flexibility, cost and quality we were looking for to ensure Jezebel was both safe and lowered enough to improve Victoria’s stance at stops and confidence during slow speed maneuvers. The project is fairly straight forward, and the majority of the time will be spent making adjustments to the height of the bike to ensure the best fit. Overall, I would rate the difficulty of this change as a 5 out of 10, for someone with
moderate mechanical ability. With the right tools, and a couple of extra hands, it’s a nice afternoon modification (depending on whether you run into any issues, it can take between 30mins-2hours).

What You Will Need

1)   Stand for your bike

2)   Floor or car jack

3)   19mm and 17mm Wrenches

4)   19mm and 17mm Ratchets

5)   Torque wrench

6)  Philips screw driver

7)   Set of Allen Keys

Our Tools

Jack/Stands

We picked up a Motomaster motorcycle jack for about $100.00 at Canadian Tire. Learn from our mistake and make sure to check the frame and orientation of the bars on the stand, and how it’ll fit on your bike – you don’t want to lift the bike by the engine or exhaust system, you want to be lifting it by the frame. While this jack is perfect for my Vulcan 900, it’s the wrong orientation for a Ninja 250R. We had to get creative and turn the jack 90 degrees so we could lift the bike by the frame and not the engine or put pressure on the exhaust system. Next time we will get some metal bars to run perpendicularly across the jack to ensure a sturdy and easy process to raise the bike.

A handy feature of this jack, is that it has a fairly wide base and it locks when you jack it up. This is important for safety, so if you get a motorcycle jack, check for these features, and make sure you lift the bike on level ground. Unfortunately, there is no way to lock the wheels on the jack so you need to be careful it doesn’t roll away on you, We suggest wedging some blocks under it for added security.

Jack

A car jack can be really handy once you have the bike raised. It will help you take pressure off the bolts that you need to remove. Since there were two of us working on the mod, we just lifted the rear tire to remove and replace the bolts as needed (warning, the bike weighs 300lbs that you’d be lifting). If you are going solo on this mod (I recommend working with someone anytime you lift your bike as you never know when/if something might go wrong), you will want a jack to help out. Most car jacks will be just fine.

Wrenches, Ratchets, Allen Keys and Screw Drivers

Nothing special here, we had generic tools. If you are going to be doing a lot of your own maintenance, invest in a good set of tools. They will pay off in the long run.

Torque Wrench

A lot of people out there don’t mention the torque wrench when they post their How tos… its important that the bolts are tightened properly. This will lessen the chance of the bold coming loose, or damaging the components by over tightening. We picked up a simple torque wrench for under $30.00 at Canadian Tire. The scale on this wrench was for up to 150 foot pounds of torque, more than enough for this project.

STEP 1: Removing the Side Fairings

We decided to remove the side fairings to improve access to the existing links and rear shock. It is likely possible to change the links without removing the fairings, but we didn’t want to run the risk of damaging them during the modification. The Roaring Toyz site says to remove the side covers and fairings. You don’t need to remove the side covers – we didn’t.

1)   (A) Remove three black plastic rivets by pushing in on the centre  and pulling straight out. They can be a little sticky if they are dirty so you may want to clean them first. Then (B) remove the fairing mounting screws  and (C) the mounting Allen bolts

3)   Remove the fairing carefully, as your signal lights are still connected! It will take a bit of wiggling but if you pull it off in a motion that goes from the front of the bike to the back (rather than away from the bike), you should be able to get it off. You may hear a little snap, that’s where the plastics snap together, don’t be alarmed! Disconnect the  signal light connectors (A). There is a little clip that if you press on the side closest to the bike it will release the wire from the signal light. It is kind of like a miniature teeter-totter.

4)   Make sure to set the fairings down on a smooth surface, inside facing down so you don’t scratch them.

This is Jezebel after removing her side fairings. She's nekkid!

STEP 2: Replacing the Stock Tie Rods/Links

1)    We jacked the bike up to get the rear tire about two inches off the ground. We were careful to raise the bike using the frame, and not the engine or exhaust system. This took a little effort with the jack I had chosen. If you are using a jack, make sure to either lock it, or use blocks to keep your bike in position.

2)   Lift or jack up the rear tire to remove any tension from the rear shock. This will take some adjusting as you get to the bolt removal stage. Just be careful not to raise it too much, putting pressure on the suspension and potentially making the bike unstable.

3)   On the brake side, using a 19mm socket and a 17mm wrench, remove the bottom bolt (A). You may need to adjust the height of the rear wheel to allow the bolt to slide out smoothly. Then do the same with the top bolt (B). There is a metal sleeve that is inside the shock and Rocker Arm, just be careful that these do not come out when you remove the bolts. If they slide some, just push them back into place. Use another person to help secure the bike while you remove the lowering links and bolts. When you do this, the swing arm will pivot so that the front end moves down. Lifting up on the wheel will help to get it back into position when you replace the new links.

4)   Place the Roaring Toyz lowering link in place on the right hand (brake) side of the bike first, and feed the top bolt through. The single hole should be at the top of the link, then place the second link on the right side of the bike and lightly place the nut on the end of the bolt. Do not tighten it just yet as you will need to move the links to get them in place for the bottom bolt. There are rubber seals that go around these bolts, make sure they don’t fall out and get forgotten. They need to be in place when you reassemble the suspension.

5)   Since the new links are slightly longer than the OEM links, you will need to lower the rear wheel slightly to align the bolt with the appropriate hole. We chose the 4^th hole from the top. This lead to about a 3.5″ drop in the rear of the bike, and a 2” drop in the seat height. This image shows you what each hole will drop the suspension (rear of the bike) by. These numbers do not correspond to seat height! The bike is essentially a triangle, so you drop the rear, the seat will go down, but not by the same amount (hence us lowering the rear by 3.5 resulted in a 2″ drop in seat height).

these are the drop heights of the suspension (the back of the bike). NOT the seat.

6)   Feed the lower bolt through both links and the shock and finger tighten the bolts.

7)   Now that the bolts are in place you will need to tighten them to 44 foot pounds of torque.

8)   Remove the jack holding up the rear wheel, and replace the side fairings

9)   Double check the torque on your bolts.

Lowering the Front End

It may sound strange that you need to use handle bar raisers to lower your front end, but it is necessary to create additional space where the handlebars mount to slide the front shocks higher up, ultimately lowering your front end. Most kits will only get you a total of a one inch drop on the front end.

1)     Place a jack under the front wheel to support the suspension.

2)     Using an Allen key, unto the bolts holding the handle bars in place (C)

3)     Place the handle bar risers where the handle bars had been fastened, and then place the handle bars on them, running the bolts that came with the risers (they are about 1” longer) and tighten them to 18 foot pounds of torque.

4)     Loosen the upper and lower fork clamp bolts on both sides of the bike, and slide the suspension upwards using the jack. It should move about one inch.

5)     Tighten the upper and lower bolts to 15 footpounds of torque on the upper and 22 foot pounds of torque on the lower.

6)     Lower your bike and check the torques on all bolts.

7)     Test your bike for fit.

Important! Things to Watch Out For:

Kick Stand

Since we lowered Jezebel about 2.5” overall we will need to either buy a new kickstand that is a little shorter (runs around $100.00) or have the kickstand cut and re-welded ($30.00 – $50.00) at a shop. This is important since the lowered bike will stand very upright with the stock  kickstand, possibly making it prone to tipping over. It can also make it almost impossible to park on even the slightest of incline so if you are lowering your bike more than 2 inches, you need to a shortened stand.

Clearance

Using lowering links to lower your bike moves the whole bike lower, including the suspension. This can dramatically lessen your ability to drive over rough terrain, ramps, and may keep you from carrying passengers. You have to be careful when riding over speedbumps as you may scratch the bottom of your bike, being unable to clear them – avoid them if you can.

Tire Rubbing on the Fender

This method of lowering your bike will also reduce the space between the rear fender and tire. This is particularly important if you are heavier set, or taking a passenger, but should be monitored by anyone who’s lowered their bike with links.

If you have your rear suspension set to a very low pre-load, you should increase it to 3 or 4 if you are lowering your bike more than 2 inches give or take… We ended up increasing the preload to 6 as we found that the tire lightly rubbed on the fender. We didn’t want to raise the bike, but we were lucky and the added preload keeps the tire off the fender even with a 200 pound guy bouncing on the back seat (which is a good way to see if you’ll be alright – just get someone bouncing on the back seat while you watch to see if the tire and fender touch). We are monitoring this very closely as it could cause the back tire to lock up in extreme cases. If it continues to be an issue, we will raise her by one hole, resolving the problem. There will be no passengers on Jezebel due to this.

Change in Handling

Since we are moving away from the stock geometry of the bike (2.5” to 3” drop in the rear and only 1” drop in the front), the handling did change some. This would be more noticeable to a seasoned rider than a new rider, but it is something to keep in mind, and you may need time to adjust to the new handling.

Re-Torquing

After you get out on the road for a day, double check all bolts that you tightened during this project. Sometimes bolts loosen and its better to catch them before they cause a major problem like an accident.

If you have any questions, feel free to leave them in to comments. A poster on the Kawi Forums did another great How-To for lowering links with tons of photos, and another poster did one for installing the handlebar raisers.